It depends on what you want to see. The famous wildebeest river crossings happen late July through August in the Masai Mara, spectacular, but crowded. Calving season in the southern Serengeti runs January through March and is extraordinary with far fewer people. Gorilla trekking is possible year-round, but the dry seasons (June to August and December to February) make for easier trekking conditions. The green season brings fewer tourists, more baby animals, dramatic skies, and some of the best photography of the year. Leonie’s view: there is no bad time to go. It is about knowing where to be and when.

The river crossings from late July through August are genuinely extraordinary — but you will share that experience with a lot of other vehicles. If witnessing the crossing specifically is your goal, plan for it and go in with realistic expectations about the crowds. There are camps positioned to get you there before most vehicles arrive, or even set up so the wildebeest sometimes cross right past camp — those are worth asking about when you book. But if you simply want incredible wildlife, the Masai Mara delivers that at any time of year. Lions, cheetah, and leopard are resident in the conservancies year-round, and the green season — fewer vehicles, dramatic skies, baby animals everywhere — is Leonie’s personal favourite time to be there.

Northern Kenya is Leonie’s first recommendation for families spanning grandparents to small children. The private conservancies in Laikipia — areas like Lewa and Borana — allow a diversity of activity that national parks simply cannot match: walking, horse riding, cycling, canoeing, all from the same property. The owners often raise their own children there, the staff are genuinely used to kids, and the wildlife is exceptional — you will see rhino, elephant, and big cats without the crowds of the main parks. There are also excellent exclusive-use villas in the region for families who want a private chef and guide. Pair Laikipia with a few nights in the Masai Mara for the full wildlife experience and you have a trip that works for everyone from age five to eighty-five.

Zanzibar is the most versatile and easiest choice — great beaches, good diving and snorkelling, kite surfing, dhow trips, and Stone Town for culture. It is getting busier every year but still delivers very well. On the Kenyan coast, Watamu is Leonie’s favourite for activities: a marine park with good diving and snorkelling, the ancient Gedi ruins, great water sports, and a much less touristed feel than Zanzibar. Lamu is for people who want to switch off completely — no cars, golden sand beaches, beautiful sunsets, and almost nothing to do beyond pool and peace. For the very best diving, the Seychelles is world-class and there are direct flights from Nairobi, making it a natural pairing with any Kenya itinerary.

When you book East Africa through Sikeleli, you work directly with Leonie, someone who was born in Uganda, has driven across East Africa since childhood, and currently lives on the Kenyan coast. This is not a destination she visits for research trips. These are her relationships, her trusted guides, her honest opinions about what is worth your money. Sikeleli is family-owned and completely non-bureaucratic. Every itinerary is built from scratch around you. There are no fixed packages, no call centres, no handoffs. You speak to the person who knows your trip, before you leave and throughout your journey.